Post by Amani on Dec 6, 2007 14:52:38 GMT -5
Dining Out: Layaly just waiting to be discovered
Amanda Gold, Chronicle Staff Writer
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
When Maher Damous wants a little family time, he doesn't have to look further than the inside of his tranquil Mediterranean restaurant.
Nestled on a quiet block of San Francisco's Clement Street, Layaly is home base for his closest kin - wife Sara Bassa runs the kitchen, and at least one of their daughters can be spotted cheerfully waiting tables while Maher ambles back and forth between the front and back of the house.
Opened just over a year ago, Layaly offers a cuisine that the neighborhood has little of - most of the street is marked by sushi, dim sum or Korean barbecue spots. Locals should find it a welcome addition; I've come to consider it a go-to-weekly spot.
And yet, I've been acutely aware of the lack of customers - one other table, at most, was occupied on each of my three visits. When I've ordered takeout, the bag often sits alone behind the counter. I've started holding my breath each time I dial the number, wondering will this place still be there next time I have a hankering for crusty, herb-laced falafel ($3.95) or lemony chicken skewers ($10.95)?
Only time will tell. Despite this meager showing of clientele, Damous and family run the restaurant with care. They consistently use fresh ingredients, including a daily fish special (A.Q.) and pristine produce, and keep the interior immaculate.
The decor is spare and simple. A two-toned, checkered beige tile floor provides the base for utilitarian dark wood tables and chairs. A wood-framed arched window lends a glimpse of the kitchen, which is more interesting than the knickknacks and framed paintings of bottles or scenic vistas that dot the walls. There isn't saltshaker out of place, or a sign of wear.
Bassa's menu is extensive, with homey options like a rib-sticking stuffed eggplant with feta, tomatoes and pine nuts in tomato sauce ($9.95). Pureed lentil soup ($3.95), though underseasoned, is a good antidote for December chills or a counterpoint to the aromatic Mediterranean salad ($5.95).
The best way to start is to order the meze platter. It's large enough to feed a small army, and at $11.95, is an incredible value. Diners can sample six spreads ($3.95-$4.95 a la carte), including a creamy maize-hued squash dip, smoky baba ghanoush and ezme, laced with roasted red peppers. An herbal tabbouleh salad, tangy yogurt dip and hummus round out the platter, and with warm wedges of pita it's a meal in itself, especially for those desiring a vegetarian option.
Two cigar-shaped cylinders of bourek come on the meze platter, or can be ordered a la carte ($3.95). The crispy phyllo exterior enrobes a filling of feta and parsley, and with a layer of soft dough between, tastes like a delicious fried blintz.
Several of the salads benefit from a lemony dressing, including the Layaly ($5.95), a restaurant signature. Similar to a fattoush salad, it's bright and crisp with a whisper of mint - the greens, shards of tomato and scallions are tossed with wedges of brittle toasted pita. My only complaint was the jagged cucumbers, which looked as if they had been cut with pinking shears.
By swapping ingredients, Bassa has been able to turn a few cooking methods and sauces into an extensive list of entrees. Juicy shrimp with the tails intact are either skewered into kebabs ($15.95) and enhanced with lemon juice, or tossed into an aromatic tomato sauce swimming with peppers and onions ($15.95).
Beef receives virtually the same treatments, though the marinade for the skewers ($11.95) is slightly different, tasting of soy sauce and oregano. The beef dried out easily, and badly needed a dunk in the accompanying yogurt sauce to be palatable.
Other meat dishes suffered the same fate. Though the rack of lamb ($23.95) is an impressive display, with four rows of chops and an herbed coating, both that and the lamb kebab ($13.95) were dry.
It's best to stick with the more hearty sauced dishes, like the tender chicken saute ($9.95), sauced with the familiar peppery tomato blend. It's wonderful - like a quick version of a grandmother's cacciatore.
A little lighter are the vegetable kebabs, showcasing two fat skewers of ruby-colored, grilled produce. The vegetables are caramelized and supple, rounded out by the slightest bitter charred edge from the grill.
Entrees come with a choice of two sides - fluffy rice pilaf or french fries. In most cases, rice is the smart choice, acting as the perfect sponge for heavier sauces.
Only a handful of desserts (all $5) are made on-site, including kunafe (a sweet cheese-filled phyllo pastry doused in sticky syrup), rice pudding and baklava. The baklava was unavailable when I tried to order it, and the rice pudding was too runny. Damous orders the rest of the desserts from Gourmet Express, and they're more refined, though none stand out.
Ultimately, sweets are an afterthought - better to fill up on the meze and a selection of the home-style entrees. To the hardworking family who developed the recipes, these are the items that will draw the customers to Layaly, solidifying its deserved home on Clement Street.
Layaly Mediterranean Grill
2435 Clement St. (near 26th Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 668-1676.
11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Difficult street parking.
Pluses: Great appetizers, like the meze platter and Layaly salad. Spotless restaurant is well kept.
Minuses: Some entrees, especially meat dishes, can be dry. Desserts are an afterthought.
Amanda Gold, Chronicle Staff Writer
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
When Maher Damous wants a little family time, he doesn't have to look further than the inside of his tranquil Mediterranean restaurant.
Nestled on a quiet block of San Francisco's Clement Street, Layaly is home base for his closest kin - wife Sara Bassa runs the kitchen, and at least one of their daughters can be spotted cheerfully waiting tables while Maher ambles back and forth between the front and back of the house.
Opened just over a year ago, Layaly offers a cuisine that the neighborhood has little of - most of the street is marked by sushi, dim sum or Korean barbecue spots. Locals should find it a welcome addition; I've come to consider it a go-to-weekly spot.
And yet, I've been acutely aware of the lack of customers - one other table, at most, was occupied on each of my three visits. When I've ordered takeout, the bag often sits alone behind the counter. I've started holding my breath each time I dial the number, wondering will this place still be there next time I have a hankering for crusty, herb-laced falafel ($3.95) or lemony chicken skewers ($10.95)?
Only time will tell. Despite this meager showing of clientele, Damous and family run the restaurant with care. They consistently use fresh ingredients, including a daily fish special (A.Q.) and pristine produce, and keep the interior immaculate.
The decor is spare and simple. A two-toned, checkered beige tile floor provides the base for utilitarian dark wood tables and chairs. A wood-framed arched window lends a glimpse of the kitchen, which is more interesting than the knickknacks and framed paintings of bottles or scenic vistas that dot the walls. There isn't saltshaker out of place, or a sign of wear.
Bassa's menu is extensive, with homey options like a rib-sticking stuffed eggplant with feta, tomatoes and pine nuts in tomato sauce ($9.95). Pureed lentil soup ($3.95), though underseasoned, is a good antidote for December chills or a counterpoint to the aromatic Mediterranean salad ($5.95).
The best way to start is to order the meze platter. It's large enough to feed a small army, and at $11.95, is an incredible value. Diners can sample six spreads ($3.95-$4.95 a la carte), including a creamy maize-hued squash dip, smoky baba ghanoush and ezme, laced with roasted red peppers. An herbal tabbouleh salad, tangy yogurt dip and hummus round out the platter, and with warm wedges of pita it's a meal in itself, especially for those desiring a vegetarian option.
Two cigar-shaped cylinders of bourek come on the meze platter, or can be ordered a la carte ($3.95). The crispy phyllo exterior enrobes a filling of feta and parsley, and with a layer of soft dough between, tastes like a delicious fried blintz.
Several of the salads benefit from a lemony dressing, including the Layaly ($5.95), a restaurant signature. Similar to a fattoush salad, it's bright and crisp with a whisper of mint - the greens, shards of tomato and scallions are tossed with wedges of brittle toasted pita. My only complaint was the jagged cucumbers, which looked as if they had been cut with pinking shears.
By swapping ingredients, Bassa has been able to turn a few cooking methods and sauces into an extensive list of entrees. Juicy shrimp with the tails intact are either skewered into kebabs ($15.95) and enhanced with lemon juice, or tossed into an aromatic tomato sauce swimming with peppers and onions ($15.95).
Beef receives virtually the same treatments, though the marinade for the skewers ($11.95) is slightly different, tasting of soy sauce and oregano. The beef dried out easily, and badly needed a dunk in the accompanying yogurt sauce to be palatable.
Other meat dishes suffered the same fate. Though the rack of lamb ($23.95) is an impressive display, with four rows of chops and an herbed coating, both that and the lamb kebab ($13.95) were dry.
It's best to stick with the more hearty sauced dishes, like the tender chicken saute ($9.95), sauced with the familiar peppery tomato blend. It's wonderful - like a quick version of a grandmother's cacciatore.
A little lighter are the vegetable kebabs, showcasing two fat skewers of ruby-colored, grilled produce. The vegetables are caramelized and supple, rounded out by the slightest bitter charred edge from the grill.
Entrees come with a choice of two sides - fluffy rice pilaf or french fries. In most cases, rice is the smart choice, acting as the perfect sponge for heavier sauces.
Only a handful of desserts (all $5) are made on-site, including kunafe (a sweet cheese-filled phyllo pastry doused in sticky syrup), rice pudding and baklava. The baklava was unavailable when I tried to order it, and the rice pudding was too runny. Damous orders the rest of the desserts from Gourmet Express, and they're more refined, though none stand out.
Ultimately, sweets are an afterthought - better to fill up on the meze and a selection of the home-style entrees. To the hardworking family who developed the recipes, these are the items that will draw the customers to Layaly, solidifying its deserved home on Clement Street.
Layaly Mediterranean Grill
2435 Clement St. (near 26th Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 668-1676.
11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Difficult street parking.
Pluses: Great appetizers, like the meze platter and Layaly salad. Spotless restaurant is well kept.
Minuses: Some entrees, especially meat dishes, can be dry. Desserts are an afterthought.